Channel
Wet Processing & Finishing
Wet processing transforms greige fabric into finished goods through coloration and finishing. Dyeing immerses substrate to color it uniformly throughout, while printing applies color to defined areas to create patterns. Functional finishes then add performance properties. Common print methods include screen, digital/inkjet, and sublimation, each suited to different runs and substrates.
Last updated June 2026
What is the difference between dyeing and printing?
Dyeing introduces color into a textile so that the substrate is colored uniformly throughout, typically by immersing fiber, yarn, or fabric in a dye liquor under controlled time, temperature, and pH. The goal is even, solid coloration across the whole material. Printing, by contrast, applies colorant to selected areas of the fabric surface to create patterns, motifs, or localized color. Print pastes or inks usually contain thickeners and auxiliaries so color stays where it is placed, followed by fixation (such as steaming or curing) and washing-off to develop and set the design.
How do dye classes match to fiber types?
Coloration depends on matching dye chemistry to fiber chemistry. Reactive dyes form covalent bonds with cellulosic fibers such as cotton, viscose, and linen, giving bright shades and good wash-fastness. Direct dyes also color cellulosics but generally need after-treatment to improve fastness. Disperse dyes are used for hydrophobic synthetics, most commonly polyester, and are the dye class behind sublimation transfer. Acid dyes color protein fibers such as wool and silk, as well as polyamide (nylon). Vat dyes offer excellent fastness on cellulosics, while basic (cationic) dyes are associated with acrylic. Selecting the wrong dye class for a fiber leads to poor uptake and weak fastness.
What are the common printing methods?
Rotary and flat screen printing push print paste through a stencil-bearing screen, one screen per color. Screens carry high paste volumes, so screen printing delivers strong, opaque color and is efficient for long production runs once screens are engraved, though each design change requires new screens. Digital, or inkjet, printing jets ink directly onto fabric from a digital file, needing no screens. It supports fine detail, photographic gradients, unlimited colors, and fast design changes, making it well suited to short runs and sampling. Sublimation printing prints disperse-dye inks onto transfer paper (or directly), then uses heat to convert the dye to a gas that diffuses into synthetic fibers; it produces durable, soft-handle results and is most effective on polyester and light-colored grounds.
What do functional finishes do?
Functional finishes are treatments applied during finishing to give a fabric performance properties beyond color and basic hand. Common examples include water-repellent and water-resistant finishes, flame-retardant finishes, antimicrobial finishes, easy-care or wrinkle-resistant (resin) finishes, and softening finishes that adjust handle and drape. Finishes can be mechanical (such as calendering, sanforizing, or raising) or chemical (applied by padding, exhaust, or coating, then dried and cured). Durability varies: some finishes are designed to survive repeated laundering, while others are temporary and intended mainly to aid handling, appearance, or a specific end-use requirement.
Printing methods compared (qualitative)
| Characteristic | Screen (rotary/flat) | Digital / inkjet | Sublimation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Color application | Paste pushed through stencil screens, one per color | Ink jetted directly from digital file | Disperse dye transferred as gas into fiber under heat |
| Run length suited to | Long / repeat runs | Short runs and sampling | Short to medium; on-demand |
| Design changeover | Requires new screens per design/color | Instant, file-based | New transfer artwork only |
| Detail and color range | Limited by number of screens; strong, opaque color | Fine detail, gradients, virtually unlimited colors | Photographic detail; vivid on light grounds |
| Best substrates | Broad, including cottons and blends | Broad, with appropriate ink-fiber pretreatment | Polyester and other synthetics; light colors |
| Color durability character | Strong, opaque coverage | Depends on ink class and fixation | Dye bonds into fiber; durable, soft handle |
Key terms
Greige (grey) fabricWet processingDye liquorReactive dyeDisperse dyeAcid dyeVat dyeFixationWash-fastnessRotary screen printingInkjet (digital) printingSublimation transferPadding (pad application)CuringHand (handle)Fastness